The second week is done now. Students have taken their midterm written and practical exams and I think they are feeling more of a handle on the course content. Yesterday (Thursday), was a very stormy day. The wind was blowing off the ocean and the waves were breaking high, over the seawall at the college and up to the road in places. The wind was so high we had to clutch at our skirts so they didn’t blow up around our ears in a sudden gust.
Ansina, the special education coordinator, lost her father earlier this week, and yesterday they released the body to the family. At noon two buses from special education showed up at the college to haul us all to Ansina’s house to give her family our respects. This was my first time at a local funeral. I don’t know what his status was in the community, but I guess it was high enough. We piled from the buses into the blustery wind and heavy rain, and made our way through the mud down the hill to the house. Tents were set up outside with plastic chairs in rows. We could see the family under a tent at the back of the property. We waited. Everyone made sure that Meghan and I were under cover, but some people were still exposed to the wet. Finally the men filed in one by one. The women lined up after the men, and they made us go near the front in deference to our outsider status. When we came through the door, Ansina was standing alone in the middle of a room decorated with white flowers and a white casket was against the wall with half of the lid up. She was crying spasmodically with a tissue up to her face, shaking hands with each person. I was the second woman. The first woman, Mary, is one of the administrators in Special Education. She gave Ansina a big hug and held her for a minute as Ansina wailed. Then it was my turn. Her grief was so palpable and so loud and wet that I was caught up in it and also gave her a hug. She gripped me hard, then tore herself away to shake the hand of the next person which was Meghan. Roman, one of the men, was peering into the casket, but I walked by without looking in. At the end of the casket was a silk lined urn, and I dropped my tightly folded dollar bill on top of the others. It was getting quite full of wadded up bills. As we exited the room, young people presented us with a tray of bento lunches- tuna or chicken and rice. I took one to be polite and also a yellow can of soda. I balanced these while shaking hands with other family members as we made our way back to the front of the property. Aitnor, one of my students who had not made it to class that morning came up to me, whispering that he would not make the exam in the morning because they would hold the burial the following day. Only later I figured out that he is Ansina’s brother!
We climbed back up the muddy hill to pile into one of the buses, and waited minutes while the driver wore down the battery trying to start it. Finally some men pushed it onto the road and the driver rolled backward down the hill trying to jump the clutch. It didn’t work. Then everyone piled out and pushed the bus back to the top of the hill, even the women, which was unusual. When the driver went over the other side of the hill (going forward), he was able to start it and we piled back in, very damp, but full of camaraderie from the high emotions of the funeral and the shared experience of pushing the bus through the mud and rain.
Once we got back to the college, everyone scattered to eat or do errands. I had lost my bento on the bus, but that was fine. Meghan and I ate peanut butter on crackers. It was hard to gather everyone again to set off on the home visits, but finally over an hour late, we set off. Half of the children cancelled once we got to their homes, but each of the two teams on our bus got to see one child. We went to see Beloved, an almost 3-year old girl with cerebral palsy and microcephaly (small head). This was my second visit to her house. He mom had 12 pregnancies, but only 6 viable children, and Beloved was her youngest. They lived way up the mountain, only accessible by walking about a mile along a muddy track, up and down along a stream. The banana leaves and other vegetation protected us a bit from the rain, but not from the dogs who voraciously protected their property. Luckily Manner, our statesman RSA, was good with dogs.
When we arrived the young girls met us with maramars (beautiful lei to put on our heads). These were just for Meghan and I as outsiders. The children had made them using old videotape as the core, and the videotape hung down the backs of our heads in flowing bows, rustling when we moved. The flowers were ginger and some beautiful red and yellow flowers. They also had fresh coconuts and finger bananas to welcome all of us. Meghan and I shared a coconut, and finally, after years of saying she doesn’t like coconut, she got real coconut juice and meat. She loved it, as I always have. Coconuts are one of my favorite parts of being in Micronesia. Mmmmm!!
Beloved looked like she had just woken up. I encouraged the students to work on the assessment form I had taught them to use, and Beloved’s mom asked us many questions. She wanted to know what to do about her family members who don’t accept Beloved. I told her that they just don’t understand that Beloved is a person just like us. They are caught in old ways of thinking, and it’s up to all of us to teach them.
She told us that she used to take Beloved everywhere with her, but she doesn’t anymore. Beloved is getting to be too heavy, and her mom has a bad back. I asked if she would like to think about ways to take Beloved with her still, and she did. A stroller was out of the question, there is only a mud track filled with roots and slippery slopes through the jungle. I suggested a backpack or front back to assist the mom in carrying her. The mother was very enthusiastic about a front pack, and we set about measuring both of them so we could make a pack that meets their needs.
Finally we set off hiking back to the van. The rain was relentless. A few dogs cornered me on the way back, setting my heart racing. They were darting in and out at my legs and I yelled for Manner. Meghan, who was a few paces in front of me, turned around and pulled me away from the dogs as the others shooed them away. I’ve been afraid of dogs since I was little, and have been bitten several times over the years. I think they know because they always single me out.
We set off in the van, passing naked boys swimming in the stream, and girls with wet hair and glowing faces. The stream was high. We picked up the other team at Jenkin’s house and made it back to the college after five. The small boats had all left to take people back to the lagoon islands. The waves were so big, we saw the boats bouncing around, sliding down the sides of the waves, the riders drenched by the spray and the rain. We were glad to be on land.
